fandom:fashion:influences:withnail&i

[riverdresses]

Only now am I getting caught up on my fandom-fashion posts. Or post, rather, but nevertheless, at least I'm getting caught up.

This time around, my influence was by one of my favourite films of ever, Withnail & I, specifically, by Withnail. Fashion-wise, he had the best style out of everyone in the film - very dandy, very vintage, very posh, while at the same time, looking like a total drugged-out mess. But he did it with style, & a style I loved. So I decided to give his look a go!

(& yes, there's a small element of Marwood's style in this outfit, but on the whole, if you don't know better, you might not be able to find it. I do cover it at the end, however)

♥♥ NOT DIAL-UP FRIENDLY! ♥♥

i. influence & thoughts

Withnail's look throughout the film is actually quite consistent, at least in my opinion, consisting of woolen (as far as I can surmise) overcoat, waistcoat (or should it be called a vest; I'm not sure), cravat, dressy, worn sort of shirt that appears to be at least one size too big, trousers of possibly very worn velvet or corduroy (I'm completely at a loss for how to describe it otherwise) & Oxfords, or, in poor weather, polyethylene bags in place of Wellingtons. (no, I didn't try that, but that's because it didn't rain when I wore my outfit.) His shirts & cravats change occasionally, but not often - in all honesty, I can only recall two or possibly three scenes in which one or the other was of a different sort. A notable exception which I didn't include here, screencap-wise, was a suit he wore to the visit he & Marwood took to have drinks & secure the cottage from his Uncle Monty. Also notable is for a short time, he had one fabulous plaid scarf.



At home in Camden Town & presumably, just out of the bath. His cravat in this shot is one of the few different ones that he wears over the course of the film. Personally, I'm not fond of this one, but that's because I'm not overly fond of brown-hued things in general.



On holiday at Crow Crag. Here & in a few subsequent screencaps I collected, his cravat is very nicely seen, as well as his coat & to a certain extent, his waistcoat. All apear to be very old or possibly vintage or secondhand.



Drying out his shoes in the oven, with one of the best displays of his cravat & waistcoat that I have. The pattern of it is much better seen & in fact, I have seen a scarf in a shop that resembles this one close enough. Tempting to buy? O, yes.



Here, my favourite aspect of Withnail's look is perfectly showcased. It may sound odd, but I love how sloppy & tumbled about he looks here, even when he hasn't done anything to really acheive that look. He looks perfectly dandy-esque here, but with a very messy, sixties, strung-out additive mixed into it. I absolutely adore it. Anyone else, I'd think 'psh, what gutter trash', but he works the posh, sloppy look surprisingly well & of course, oddly stylish!



AH! The dandy look comes together here even further, & a bit neater than in the previous scene. Here we have a perfectly kept collar & cravat combination; the cravat itself going rather nicely with his shirt. Also, I can't be sure, but I want to say his shirt has a blue tone to it, but that could be the lighting of the scene, or my bad eyes. (also, do I dare to think he's wearing Vivienne Westwood for a pin? Most likely not, but from here, it reminds me of Vivienne's trademark symbol.) Also, as a side note, this is possibly the poshest I've seen him look in this film. Here, aside from a few other scenes, you can tell he's from money.



Waistcoat fully buttoned, about to pull his coat closed. (not button it, but merely close it) I think I prefer the waistcoat buttoned, actually; it pulls his whole look together & makes him look much neater & more sophisticated, be he drunk or high. (alas, it's rarely buttoned, but you get used to it with his style.) This is Withnail at his most sophisticated style aside from his suit, in my opinion.



A full front view of Withnail's magnificent coat, as well as Marwood's smashingly stylish leather one.

(side note: Polly Wright, a companion of the First & Second Doctors, wore a possibly white coat that was shorter than this [around her knees, I think], but had a similar fastening at the throat as Withnail's does. Alas, I do not have a cap of her in it, but I felt that it was worth mentioning, since I ♥ Withnail & I ♥ Polly & they both have fabulously sixties style, though Polly has it just a bit better than Withnail. ::winks::)



Full back view of Withnail (& Marwood's) coat(s). Incidentally, Withnail's coat is actually torn in the back; the third, flappy slit in the back was torn accidentally before filming began, but it was left as is, I believe.



Back home in Camden Town, stoned out of his mind & now we're back to the strung-out, pleasure-loving dandy look. I'm actually very fond of how he looks in this scene overall - stoned, lost, sloppy, hi-I-just-got-bailed-out-of-the-slammer-for-being-a-drunken-fucker-trying-to-drive-without-a-licence. (yes, that actually happens. It's lulz all around, I swear to Christ.) Some may say he looks like a hobo in this scene, but even so, he looks like a hobo with money on his side. I also love how his hair is right here - mine's far too long to attempt that, but I think it looks good on him. On a bit of a random tangent, Withnail has really good hair, I think. Mine's more Marwood-esque, even though it's to my shoulders; it straightens out a bit more & looks shinier after it gets washed, it gets curlier & more wilder looking when it hasn't.

I rarely use this saying, but damn . . . that's what I'd call a sexy hot mess. Which is why it's still open in my browser - oddly sexy, totally hot mess, dudes!

ia. Marwood's coat

The coat I wore, as you'll see behind the second cut, is far more Marwood-esque than Withnail-esque. Without making this any worse for those on dialup, here are the four best shots of Marwood's coat that display the slight similarities between his & mine.

i - unbuttoned, held closed
ii - from the side
iii - front view, buttoned up this time
iv - from the side again, a bit more detail visible
v - the back, as featured above

ii. practical application

For my own attempt at Withnail-esque fashion, I stuck to the mainframe of his style, shirt, worn trousers, cravat & coat. I would have worn a waistcoat, but I actually don't own one & the ones my mother has in her closet are just hideous. So I omitted the waistcoat.



The full outfit I wore, minus the coat & shoes.

Green corduroy trousers by Gloria Vanderbilt, shirt by Merona (received as a Christmas gift), cravat (or scarf, if you're picky) found amid my own dresses, once belonged to my mother.



Coat by Divided for H&M. (incidentally, this is the coat my mother borrowed, then splattered an entire bowl of miso soup upon.) The coat itself is made out of some sort of very polished cotton, as someone once told me, but it feels a bit like velvet or suede to the touch, but I don't think it's either.

This of course, is the slight Marwood-flavoured aspect of the outfit, though my coat isn't leather like his, & the slit in the back is actually sewn closed so it doesn't flap about when you walk. This is one of the only two coats I have that would have fitted my desired aesthetic, so I mixed both Marwood & Withnail style & yet, it worked quite nicely I think. The other coat I have was too Polly Wright/Lucy Saxon-esque for this, & also a bit too clean, I think. (it needs to be worn in more, I think.) Also, it was a bit too bright for this look. (it's white with a black plaid pattern by Me-Jane, in case you're curious)



Closeup of the shirt & cravat as worn. (I didn't tuck the collar down though; the slight tuck-down was for the sake of the picture.) Small anectdote on this shirt - I'd never worn it before this outfit! So it was very new & rather stiff feeling, but the way it looks in this shot is what it became after I wore it. I'm of the opinion that it needs to be slept in, tossed in the wash, then worn more to get rid of the stiffness. (rumour has it that Amelia Earhart slept in her first leather jacket because it looked too new when compared to other aviators' jackets.)



Closeup of my chosen cravat for this outfit. I have another one, also once my mother's, that is actually a bit similar to the one Withnail wears at the beginning of the film. The next time I try this style, I'll wear that one. This one was chosen to go with the green corduroys I'd picked for this first attempt & I think it all came together pretty well. (& for the record, cravats are very easy to get used to. I'd have expected it to feel more confining, but I went all day & didn't have to loosen it once. Tighten it yes, but not undo it!)



Open view of the coat. (I didn't notice the buckle was falling off the wrist on one sleeve; both buckles always do that on this coat & it is so annoying.)



Second closeup of the top half of my outfit. In keeping with my aesthetic, I didn't button my cuffs & had the bottoms of them rolled up, or occasionally flapping about my hands if my coat was off. Very Withnail, don't you think?

(editing note: Looking at the photography after the fact, I really wish I hadn't tucked the collar down & also, I hate how yellow the whole shot looks. I think the yellowness is due to the lighting in my room, actually, but it doesn't mean it makes the shot any less ugly!)



Third shot of the coat, this time buttoned up. I can't remember if I wore it buttoned up the whole time, or if I had it open - I think I probably did both, actually.

(editing note: I can't believe I forgot to crop this shot decently! ::facepalms:: Failkitty, you FAIL.)

iii. afterthoughts

All in all, I think I pulled this style off pretty well. It was walking a bit of a fine line between looking dandy-esque & looking just boring. To the trained eye, I think that what I was going for would have been a bit more clear, though I wonder what the world thought of a then-nineteen-year-old girl in a green cravat & a slightly wrinkly, slightly unkempt black button-up. Not that I'd care, but goodness, you'd think I'd attract a bit of curiosity!

Overall feelings about this adventure in fandom-fashion? Love, love, & love. I ♥ Withnail's slightly posh, slightly slumming it, slightly bohemian, quite dandy-esque look like whoa & also, this was practise for learning how to dress like a dandy! (well, more or less.) I think I'll definitely try this style again - it was a ton of fun!

(& secretly? I looooved the cravat. LOVED IT. Now if only more men in this world would wear one . . . or girls. I won't be picky!)

Screencaps by yours truly, you're most welcome to take if you like! (especially if you're planning on making graphics out of them - MOAR WITHNAIL & I GRAPHICS IN THIS WORLD PLZ.)

I'm thinking my next fandom-fashion go will be a mashup between Polly Wright & Jo Grant - go-go boots, miniskirts & hmm, maybe a sweater. Or that ugly turtleneck my father gave me for Christmas . . . but a Polly&Jo fashion mashup would be fabulous, no? & that plaid coat would go great with those styles!

Or maybe a Victoria Waterfield look, post-nineteenth-century dresses . . . good excuse to break out my plaid skirt & sweaters . . . hmmm . . . so many inspirations to pick from . . .

Comments

[alouzon.livejournal.com]

I am on dial-up, so it will probably take 2 or 3 days for all your pics to upload. So I'll just go for the jugular and comment on your last couple of paragraphs.

I'm thinking my next fandom-fashion go will be a mashup between Polly Wright & Jo Grant ... a Polly&Jo fashion mashup would be fabulous, no?
Yes, I would kill for Polly's wardrobe, so I'd love to see that.

Or maybe a Victoria Waterfield look, post-nineteenth-century dresses . . . good excuse to break out my plaid skirt & sweaters . . . hmmm . . . so many inspirations to pick from . . .
I loved Victoria in her crinoline, but unfortunately, she doesn't keep it for long. A look at the evolution of Victoria's style might be amusing.

Also, send an email to me using my live journal address, I have a link I want to send to you.

[riverdresses.livejournal.com]

DIAL-UP IS HELL, O.MY.GOD. ::yells:: That's why I'm in the bookshop every day - DECENT WI-FI CONNECTIONS, YAY.

From what I've seen of them, Polly's clothes are FABULOUS! & I even have a very Polly-esque pair of go-go boots to wear, plus the plaid coat - I may have to try her & Jo out next! :D

I loved Victoria in her crinoline, but unfortunately, she doesn't keep it for long. A look at the evolution of Victoria's style might be amusing.

I adored the dress she wore in her very first serial - I just love Victorian fashion (I swear, there is no pun there) so much, but I doubt I'd ever look as lovely as she did in it. But her later clothes were just great! (& the skirt she wears in The Enemy of the World I'd swear, is really just a kilt she borrowed from Jamie - it even has a pin!)

& I'll send you an e-mail in just a second! ::ish curious::

[sonicbookmark.livejournal.com]

GREAT. NOW I WANT TO GO TO URBAN OUTFITTERS AND BUY ALL THEIR SCARVES.

*sigh*
I really need to watch that movie!
I know that is it REALLY FUCKING SUCKY of me that I haven't watched it yet, but when I told you that I'm lazy about DVDS I meant that I'm LAZY ABOUT DVDS.
No excuse, I know. :/

Also, I would of LOVED to see pics of YOU in the outfit and not just pics of the outfit itself!
But yes, that outfit is FABULOUS. I do not think it is boring AT ALL.
FANTASTIC JOB, KITTY.

[riverdresses.livejournal.com]

WELL, DO IT. ::is your imaginary devil shoulder bunny:: (random: I've seen a scarf at the Gap that looks wicked similar to the one he wears in the last cap & I AM SO TEMPTED TO BUY IT, even though I know a) it'll be ridiculously priced & b) I HATE THE GAP ANYWAY.)

YES, YES YOU DO! ::makes the sad kitty face of DOOM:: It's such a good film! & girl, I dangled enough of the highlights of it in front of you in THREE picspams! But alas, YOU BE HAVING LIFE, UNLIKE ME. So . . . um, yes?

NO YOU WOULDN'T - I really was semi-uninentionally working the Withnail look that day - I had like, NO SLEEP, I was all powdered up, had dark circles under my eyes & my hair needed a bit of a wash. IT WOULD HAVE SACRED YOU. & I DUN LIKE SCARING MY FRIENDS. ::nods::

But I'm flattered that you liked it! :D Thankyou, thankyou! ::smoochies::

O, & cravat wearers have more fun. Yes, they do. ::nodnod::

[backinblackk.livejournal.com]

So I left a comment on this the other night, and LJ decided it was hungry and ate it! So I will say it again! I. Love. Your. Outfit. Especially that coat! And I simply have to see this film someday soon! It's on my list, I just keep forgetting! Also, I must watch in HD so that I can take notes on the types of fabrics used, because omg, I am anal like that.

Oh, did I tell you, though?! When I was watching Pyramids of Mars on the big, HD TV, I found out something I NEVER NOTICED. The sleeves and part of the bodice of Sarah's pretty dress (the one that belonged to Victoria!) is a sequined fabric! I NEVER NOTICED THIS BEFORE!

[backinblackk.livejournal.com]

...and now LJ decided to eat the end of my comment and the edit button is taking too long, SOOOO I am just replying to myself, yes.

So anyways, now that I have discovered this sequined fabric amazingness, everytime I watch something where someone has a nice outfit, I am planting myself two feet from the TV and taking notes on what they are wearing, including types of fabric. VERY DETAILED NOTES. My excuse is that I might want to major in fashion design next year or I am just way too into fandom and sewing and BLAH

[riverdresses.livejournal.com]

DUDE, I LOVE THAT IDEA. I already do that in my head when I'm watching fabulous stuffs, but you're going to have SUCH an advantage over me & my plain little telly!

GIRL, YOU'D BE AMAZING WITH FASHION & DESIGN, YOU KNOW THAT, RIGHT? (& one day, you could have your own fashion house! & hire a certain fandom-fashion-obsessed brunette to help you create your newest lines every season. ::coughs::) I love all of things you make - I'm horridly impatient & I doubt I could ever do any of that - just give me pre-made things, a model, a LOOK & I'll whip something up out of that! :P

& also, because it's LATE HERE & I AM GENERALLY MADE OF FAIL & FORGETFULNESS, the Classic!Who friending meme I've been talking about? IS GOING LIVE ON FRIDAY. It's all ready, just needs to be posted! :D

[riverdresses.livejournal.com]

NOW IT'S EATING MY COMMENTS! ::throttles LJ like Six throttling Peri post-regeneration::

THANKYOU SO MUCH, SWEETCAKE! ::kisses your head:: I should actually WEAR that coat more - I love it, but I rarely wear it, surprisingly! O___o & YES, YOU MUST SEE IT SOON! ::does not cough & point at icon, really:: It's such a great film & it is OMFG HYSTERICAL, I SWEAR. Then the ending is SO sad. ::draws hearts:: SEEEEE IT. & IN HD? I AM STILL JUST A BIT JEALOUS, OKAAAAY? (there's a particular scene I'd LOVE to see in HD - looks great regularly, but I WANT TO SEE IT IN HD.)

OMG YOU DIDN'T! Sequins! O, Sarah was a dream in that dress & I'm sure Victoria was too! (I've seen a bit of her, but I don't think I've seen her in that dress yet) ::floppy hands:: SPARKLY THINGS!

[riverdresses.livejournal.com]

YES YOU DO. ::nods & looks very sweet::

Aww, thankyou sweetie! I actually think my dresses are far more prettier, but alas, can't really wear them in winter, can you? & you should do that TOOOOOO! It's quite a lot of fun once you start. ^_^